Бароло в винном погребе Элио Алтаре. Винный погреб, Пьемонт, Бароло, Италия, вино, винный тур, винодел

Elio Altare is recognized as the most significant innovator of Barolo wine. Barolo is recognized as the king of wines. They think so, because it is long-lived, complex, saturated in its structure. According to Elio Altare, Barolo is the king of wines. Why?

– Barolo is undoubtedly the king, it amazes everyone with its authority and significance. But whoever learns to appreciate it will learn that it can be gentle, seductive and generous, you just have to learn to wait. Barolo became known all over the world not only as a wine, it brought with it a deeper understanding of rural culture, our roots, people, landscapes and gastronomy, so Barolo is the king of not only wine, but everything that follows from it.

We said that you became a revolutionary. But how did the need for innovation come about, and what was your amazing innovation?

– The idea of ​​renovation arose because the BAROLO product at that time, in the 50s and 70s, was very difficult to drink, which means that it was highly appreciated and then sold. Obviously, this reasoning does not apply to all Lange producers, but, say, to the majority and, undoubtedly, to our cantina (winery). The idea was to interpret Barolo wine in a new style and with a different approach, starting from the first attempts, but always with a very specific goal in mind: to create a good wine, good already both at a young age and in mature, with simpler tannins and more fresh aromas.

Sylvia, you appeared when the revolution had already taken place, but do you think there is still room for innovation? And what could it be?

– Yes, I appeared when “the dish was already on the table” and the greatest efforts had already been made! Each generation brings something new, otherwise we would still all be living in the Stone Age, right? What our parents did is unique, they were the right people, with the right idea at the right time. Now it is impossible to do something as grandiose, but this does not prevent us from experimenting. We must not forget the past, but we are looking forward. Among our advantages are the ability to travel, technology, scientific research, all the factors that can be useful if combined with tradition.

 

Семья Элио Алтаре на своих виноградниках в Пьемонте. Бароло, Италия, Пьемонт, вино

The Altare family in their vineyards

Barolo Elio Altare is a symbol of the new concept, and also Barolo from the village of La Morra (although you have a small plot in Serralunga). What characteristics of the terroir can best express your Barolo and La Morra wines in general?

– The known soils in different zones produce wines with very different aromas. The wines from La Morra (for us – from the Arborina vineyard) definitely represent a search for absolute elegance, refinement of aromas of rose petals and balsamic tones, at the same time with precise and direct tannins. The wines from Serralunga (for us – from the Cerretta vineyard, on the contrary, have a pronounced structure, aromas of spices and tobacco, rough tannins. The game here consists in the ability to maximize the interpretation of both vineyards, a challenge that is repeated every year.

Винный погреб Элио Алтаре в Пьемонте. Винный погреб, бароло, барбареско, неббиоло, Пьемонт, вино, винный тур, винодел

Elio and Sylvia, it is very interesting for those who like to discover that Barolo wines are very different not only in style, but also in terroir, which varies from zone to zone. What other villages (zones) of the Barolo appellation give very recognizable characteristics to their wines? What exactly are these characteristics?

– Of course, Barolo from Verduno is proof that Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir are cousins: wines from this area are always the most elegant and delicate, as opposed to wines from Serralunga or Monforte, or Castiglione Falletto, where Barolo becomes more powerful and masculine. The game here is to try as much as possible and then decide what you like the most.

Silvia, Barolo which zone besides La Morra are you most interested in?

– I don’t have a favorite commune, I like that Barolo, which is good.

Talking about the communes of the Barolo appellation, I thought that there is much more similarity between the Langhe and Burgundy regions (the concept of dedicated Cru vineyards, two of the most difficult varieties to cultivate in other parts of the world …). Do you think it is possible to draw a parallel between them and what? Does Burgundy inspire you? Are there other regions of the world that you try with interest?

– Burgundy was at the time of the revolution in Barolo and still remains our beacon at night. We all strive for the greatness of Burgundy producers, there is not much difference – soil, latitude, climate, work, size, mono … We say that we only lack the extra 200 years of experience that the French have in making wine!

Elio Altare is a producer of not only great wines from Nebbiolo but also great wines from the Barbera, Dolcetto grapes, white wine from the Cinque Terre region. Sylvia, can you describe in a few words the difference between every wine (grape, territory) you produce?

– Dolcetto is our simplest wine, simple because it is fruity and fresh, drunk perfectly even chilled, this is our version of Beaujolais (Beaujolais), however, more structured, and this is the first step to fall in love with wines from the Langhe.

Винодельня Элио Алтаре в Пьемонте, Италия. Бароло, Пьемонт, Неббиоло, Барбареско, Ланге

Elio Altare winery in Piedmont

Barbera has a very pleasant acidity that clears the mouth, it can be drunk at a young age, but it also matures perfectly, it goes perfectly with our cheeses and saloumi.

White wine from the Cinque Terre is a new project, the madness of Elio, who is always looking for new challenges. The mixture of local, almost unknown varieties of “bosco” and “albarola” gives us a wine with aromas of the Mediterranean (citrus, grapefruit) and typical herbs such as sage, with a strong salty note in the mouth that makes it unique.

Старый винный погреб Элио Алтаре в Пьемонте

Do you think there are other great terroirs like Langhe in Italy? Which? Why?

– In Italy, in every corner you will find a great terroir, it is impossible to name just a few, wrong in relation to other regions. Terroir is not only the land, it is all together, the connection between man and the climate, it is a combination of many, many years of history and culture, Italy is the cradle of many small / large wine-growing areas with great potential.

Silvia, which markets do you think are more interested in Barolo in general and which, in particular, in your Barolo?

– There is no particular market that we are targeting more. Our mission is to convert everyone to barolesimo. So that when they hear “Barolo” in Buenos Aires, or Stockholm, or Singapore, most people know what we are talking about.

Elio and Sylvia, wine for you is work, life, passion. Returning home in the evening of a working day (vineyard, office, tasting visits), what do you drink at dinner? Wine? Which?

 

– In the evening we always come back tired, I don’t know why, but there is always a lot of work here! We are big consumers of champagne and wines from Riesling (Germany and Austria). Among the reds, the choice is even wider, it all depends on the dinner (or what is in the refrigerator). We are very open to experimentation and can drink both Shiraz from the Barossa Valley and Pinot Noir from Burgundy or Oregon.

What wine will forever remain in your memory (yours or not yours)?

– There are many such wines, it is difficult to name one, but most often it is Barolo or Burgundy wine.

Is there a wine and dish that creates the perfect combination that you would always recommend?

– Traditional Italian dishes such as meat stews in wine or aged cheeses are always ideal, although if the wine is significant, then it can be appreciated slowly, by itself, perhaps simply by reading a book. The emotions that it evokes are important.

Elio Altare’s story begins with a challenge that some have called a revolution. According to Elio Altare, is there still an opportunity to revolutionize the world of wine and, in particular, Barolo?

– Of course, as I said, we look with one eye forward and one back. Let’s repeat this interview in 10 years and see what has changed.

Виноградники Элио Алтаре в Пьемонте, Италия. Элио Алтаре, Бароло, Пьемонт