Remi Jobard Meursault 2021

Kopš savas pirmās paša veiktās vinifikācijas 1992. gadā Remī Žobārs (Rémi Jobard), Šarla Žobāra dēls un Fransuā Žobāra brāļadēls, ražo iespaidīgu apelācijas Mersault vīnu klāstu. Līdz 1996. gadam, kad Remī tēvs devās pelnītā atpūtā, abas paaudzes strādāja plecu pie pleca. Remī Žobārs meklē aromāta tīrību un to arī prot panākt. Tomēr viņš nepieder pie vīndariem, kuri Chardonnay elegantā aspekta meklējumos, kā mēdz teikt, “līdz ar ūdeni no vannas izlej arī bērnu”. Būtisks viņa vīndarīšanas tehnikas elements ir spiešana: viņš novāktās vīnogas presē visā nakts garumā, līdz pilnam divus bārus lielam spiedienam nonākot pakāpeniski, rūpīgi aprēķinot katru nākamo soli. Pēc tam nāk 12 mēnešus ilga vinifikācija un izturēšana mucā, kam seko vēl 6 mēneši tvertnē. Šai procesā izmanto tikai aptuveni 20% jauna koka, un Remī, iespējams, vienīgais starp Burgundijas vīndariem, dod priekšroku austriešu muciniekiem Stockinger, kuri izmanto koku no Ibstāles ielejas (aptuveni 50 km no Vīnes). Tiek liktas lietā arī vairākas augstās, šaurās Stockinger koka tvertnes ‒ foudres. Vīna pazinēji ir vienisprātis, ka tieši Stockinger mucām lielā mērā jāpateicas par vīnu eleganci un noteikti arī noturīgo pēcgaršu. Gatavojot savus pievilcīgos sarkanvīnus, Žobārs pirms vinifikācijas procesa atdala vīnogas no kātiņiem; vīns pēc tam tiek izturēts mucās (30% no tām ir no jauna koka). Champs Fulliot ir izsmalcinātākais no abiem Monthélie, bet Volnay-Santenots ir samērā viegls, tomēr apveltīts ar ārkārtīgi tīru un negaidīti noturīgu garšu.

Mersault is the standard of French Chardonnay and one of the best representatives of "white" Burgundy. The wines are well-balanced, with round fruit notes and a rich fresh butter aroma due to ageing in oak barrels. They are characterized as silky and oily with a strong and long-lasting aftertaste, and become even more intense in the aroma over time, still maintaining their velvety and sensual style.

Burgundy (Bourgogne) can be confusing because of the multiplicity of its appellations - all the small vineyards are divided between multiple producers so it can often be difficult to understand this diversity. However, it is the exact reason why the wines of Burgundy are considered to be the finest in the world. A common topic of discussion, when talking about Burgundy, is the concept of "terroir" - a unique combination of soil and climate conditions that affects the taste of wine in the appellations, making it unique to each village. Winemakers mainly use the capricious Pinot Noir and the classical Chardonnay to create true masterpieces, while Gamay and Aligote are used to make wines of a bit simpler style. Particular attention should be paid to the hierarchy of wines. First there are the regional and village wines, a step higher - the Premier Cru wines and the outstanding Grand Cru - at the top. Due the complex and inconsistent weather that can notably impact wine quality especially in bad harvest years, a very important factor here is the so called millesime - the harvest year of the grapes the particular wine is produced of, because each of these years has its own unique taste. Purchasing Burgundy wines is not easy because there are many details that should be taken into consideration - the class of the vineyard, the assessment of the manufacturer, the age of the vines, the quality of the wine as well as the millesime and, of course, the potential of ageing. The sellers play a big role here - they must be truly passionate about wine and able to offer only the best quality producers with a good reputation. That is exactly the way "Noble Wine" works!